Don’t be fooled by a product that looks like Fluidampr or Streetdampr and is even advertised as “Fluid Damper.” The bottom line is this product is a cheap imitation. These imitations are not manufactured to Fluidampr’s exacting tolerances and are not backed by Fluidampr’s exclusive money back guarantee. Vibratech’s evaluation of these viscous damper imitations has shown an inadequate fluid fill, making imitations less than effective at controlling crankshaft vibration. They are inappropriately packaged, which could cause damage in transit and rusting. Genuine Fluidampr and Streetdampr brands are always advertised with a registered trademark or the well-known logos, and are stamped with the brand name on the product and on the packaging. All Fluidampr products are made in the U.S.A.
The fluid inside the Fluidampr will NEVER deteriorate in a high performance race or street application. The fluid is good for the life of the engine.
No. The silicone fluid used inside Fluidampr and Streetdampr is practically a gel to begin with. In a performance application, the silicone fluid is GUARANTEED against deterioration, for as long as you own Fluidampr or Streetdampr. The silicone fluid is clear in color and is very thick. The silicone fluid is 45,000 times thicker than 30 weight motor oil. In fact, the silicone fluid is not like oil at all. It is sticky to the touch.
Every time a cylinder fires, the connecting rod hammers the crankshaft, making it twist as well as spin. After every twist, there’s a rebound as the crank unwinds. This twist/rebound cycle is known as torsional vibration and if not controlled, it will result in rapid bearing and crank journal wear and can lead to a broken crankshaft.
Stock dampers are tuned for maximum effectiveness with a stock rotating assembly under stock conditions. When the pistons, connecting rods, or crankshaft are changed or modified, or normal rpm range is increased, the effectiveness of a stock damper is reduced.
In a stock damper, inertia ring slippage is usually due to deterioration of the rubber strip. As the stock damper ages, the rubber strip begins to crack and lose its grip, in essence it becomes “overworked.” Also, rubber is a poor dissipator of heat. The more severe the crankshaft vibration, the more heat builds up. This causes the damping characteristics to change, which could lead to damper failure over time. This is why it is always important to inspect your damper, paying special attention to the condition of the rubber.
A good aftermarket damper protects your crank. Fluidampr is in a class all by itself, because it is designed to provide maximum control of all engine harmonic vibrations, regardless of the rpm at which they occur and regardless of the crankshaft’s natural frequency. This translates to maximum protection of the crank, main bearings, related engine components and more consistent power output. Also, Fluidampr is maintenance and repair free. Fluidampr is effective on both race and street applications.
No. Fluidampr’s timing marks are CNC machined and cannot physically move. Inertia ring slippage is a common problem with stock dampers and also a sign that harmonic vibrations are not being properly controlled.
As there was a design change, you must first determine which type of bolts you have mounting the adapter hub to damper ring (see picture below). If the bolts are the new style, socket head cap screw, then you will need to replace your existing adapter hub with an internal balance adapter hub, part # 100001. If the bolts are the old style, flat head cap screw, then a replacement adapter hub is no longer available. However, machining the counterweight off the adapter hub will make it an internal balance damper (this should be done by a qualified machinist or engine builder).
Yes, machine off the existing counterweight to convert it to internally/neutrally balanced. This should only be done by a qualified machinist or engine builder.
As there was a design change, you must first determine which type of bolts you have mounting the adapter hub to damper ring (see picture below). If the bolts are the new style, socket head cap screw, then you will need to replace your existing adapter hub with an external balance adapter hub, part # 100002. If the bolts are the old style, flat head cap screw, then a replacement adapter hub is no longer available.
No, this cannot be done. Small block dampers are a one piece design and do not have removable hubs. You will need to order an externally balanced Fluidampr part# 720111 or Non-SFI Streetdampr Part# 790100
Proper press fit is .0005 – .0015”. Maintenance of a proper press fit between the damper i.d. and the crank snout o.d. is critical for damper performance. That’s why a hammer should never be used to install a damper. Pounding can cock the damper on the snout causing the i.d. to open up. It can also cause wallowing out of the bore, or the damper spinning on the crank. A threaded installation tool presses the damper in place evenly without putting stress on the threads in the crank snout.
They do not recommend the installation of Fluidampr or Streetdampr without a damper bolt. Personal and/or property damage could result. The crank needs to be properly drilled and tapped. This procedure requires the crank to be removed from the engine. The proper torque for the bolt is 70 ft.-lbs.
Silicone fluid is a very good damping medium because it is relatively unaffected by temperature changes. It provides consistent damping in both winter and summer. The fluid will not deteriorate if the Fluidampr/Streetdampr is not used for a period of time.
No. The silicone fluid in the damper will deliver consistent performance over the entire range of operating temperatures in any operating environment that the damper will encounter.
No. The inertia ring is always freely floating inside the housing. The silicone fluid is guaranteed to last forever. If the damper was never physically abused (hit with a hammer), installed properly with an installer tool or a bolt and washer, and as long as the damper maintains a tight press fit on the crankshaft, there is nothing that can go wrong with the damper. It is important to check for corrosion or pitting on the seal surface of the damper, before installation. The seal surface should be smooth and free from rust and corrosion. As with most performance parts, if it is physically damaged from an accident or a fire, the damper should be replaced.
Yes. Fluidampr or Streetdampr can be used in these power plants. Since Fluidampr and Streetdampr are constructed of steel, they are stronger than a stock damper and may be able to withstand the side loads generated by the supercharger and drive belt to drive a supercharger. A second keyway is recommended.
On internally balanced engines, there is no counterweight on the damper. The damper is completely neutral (zero) balanced. An externally balanced engine will have an obvious counterweight on the backside of the damper and the flywheel.
No damper will compensate for an out of balance condition. The vibration damper is designed to reduce crankshaft torsional vibrations, not to balance the motor. It is a common misconception that a damper will “fix” an imbalance condition in the motor. This is absolutely not true. Only a professional balance job will solve that problem.
Balancing a crankshaft with the Fluidampr or Streetdampr is not recommended. The Fluidampr (or its damper ring) and the Streetdampr contain an inertia ring that can rotate inside. This inertia ring is balanced to very close tolerance specifications at the factory but may not be to perfect “zero” balance. When the damper is spun on a balance machine, this inertia ring may rotate inside the damper and the operator may be chasing this small inbalance while attempting to balance the crankshaft. When the damper is installed and running on a combustion engine, the shear forces on the silicone fluid inside the damper from the torsional moments of the engine crankshaft, centers the inertia ring on its bearings. A balance machine does not generate torsional shear forces and the inertia ring may not be completely centered in its bearing clearance gaps.
If you decide to competitively race your Streetdampr equipped car. Be aware, most race sanction organizations require the harmonic balancer to meet SFI 18.1 specifications. While a Streetdampr is manufactured and functions to the same high standards as a Fluidampr, it does not receive official SFI 18.1 testing, marking or certificate necessary to pass race tech inspection. This is done to keep Streetdampr an economical option for non-race restoration projects and street rods.
Streetdampr is shipped uncoated with a rust inhibitor and requires a finish before installation. Powder coating is not recommended, due to the need to bake the finish on at sustained high temperatures. The damper should never be exposed to temperatures exceeding 280° F.
If any engine work has been done which changes the rotating or reciprocating mass then the stock damper will no longer be properly tuned. Installing a Fluidampr or Streetdampr will damp all destructive torsional engine vibrations providing maximum protection for vital engine components. The most obvious sign of a problem with the stock damper is movement of the inertia ring, which can cause inaccurate timing settings. If this movement continues unchecked, there is a good possibility the ring could actually come off potentially causing engine compartment damage.