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Brake Hardware with Every Brake Pad Change

Why should you change them?

The premium materials and construction of this brake hardware kit reduces both noise and vibration, and can protect against premature wear - thereby making the repairs and replacements in your brake system less frequent. The R1 Concepts brake hardware kit is made with high quality stainless steel, which both mitigates heat and reduces deterioration due to corrosion. With a design that minimizes drag, this brake hardware is even able to improve fuel efficiency - and with exceptionally high heat resistance. It’s able to perform consistently even in high performance environments.

When should you change them?

Here are some indications:

Noise from brakes
If you notice the back of your car shakes when you are braking
If you notice uneven pad wear or if your pads wear quicker than usual
When replacing brake pads
When braking, your car pulls to the left or right
R1 kit comes complete and easy to assemble, with no additional modifications required. With the R1 Concepts brake hardware kit, you can ensure that your entire brake system is safe and ready to go.

Blank vs Drilled and Slotted vs Drilled

What Kind of Brake Rotors Are There?

Brake rotors come in many different types. Before you can purchase a fresh set of brake rotors, you must understand each of these different types, what sets them apart, and what are the pros and cons of every style. The four kinds of brake rotors are:

Drilled Only – Drilled brake rotors are easy to recognize because they have a series of holes drilled into the metal. Slotted Only – Slotted rotors have slots, which look like lines in the metal. Drilled & Slotted – Drilled and slotted brake rotors combine the drill marking and slot marking. Blank or Smooth – As the name suggests, blank or smooth brake rotors have a smooth or plain surface, with no holes or markings in the metal.

Because the names of the different brake rotors styles accurately describe what each of the styles look like, you can easily tell what kind of brake rotor you have on your car at even if you are new to auto maintenance and have never ordered brake parts before.

After you have reviewed the styles of brake rotors and can tell each of them apart, you must learn about the advantages and disadvantages of each style for the type of car you have. Since every car is different, what is fine for your light truck may not work very well for your sports car and vice versa.

Why Choose Drilled Rotors? Best Brake Rotors for: Street Performance

Pros:

If you live in an area that experiences a lot of rain, drilled rotors are a very good choice. They perform well in rainy climates by offering a good “wet bite,” hold up well over the life of the rotors, and deliver more friction and more bite than their slotted counterparts. The bite is better with these brake rotors because the drilled holes give the water a place to escape, thus drying off the braking system components when water is present. Less water means a better bite and improved brake rotor performance.

Cons:

While drilled rotors have a lot to recommend them, they can wear unevenly and may develop cracks when used in racing vehicles due to the heat and temperature extremes of a race. Drilled brake rotors also tend to wear in concentric grooved styles, which can look funny when the rotors are aged if the drilled hole patterns are not staggered. While this does not impact the performance of the brake rotors, it can affect the vehicle aesthetic and sensitive drivers may prefer to select a different style of brake rotor or else change out their rotors more often.

Drilled rotors are also a poor choice for race cars. They cannot withstand repeated heat and cool cycles very well, and will fail sooner rather than later as a result. Drilled brake rotors are fine for general use in street vehicles.

Why Choose Slotted Rotors?

Best for: Street Performance, Autocross/Track, Towing/Hauling, Off-Road

Pros:

Slotted rotors work very well for heavy trucks, SUVs, off road vehicles, tow trucks, and competition cars. It is particularly important to choose high quality brake rotors when picking a slotted style. If the brake rotors are not properly machined, from the inner to the outer edges, they can crack sooner than they otherwise would or should.

This style of brake rotor delivers improved consistency with every stop, by reducing the friction in the brake pads. Over the long run the slotted rotors also perform well: As the slots shave down glaze from overheated brake pads, they expose fresh material every time you brake. As a result, you can rely on these pads to deliver effective braking even in heavy duty vehicles.

Cons:

Slotted brake rotors are not without their disadvantages: They tend to have a shorter life compared with other types of brake rotors, and may shorten the life of brake pads as well. When you are coming to a stop from a high speed, you can feel a rumble from the rotors. They will still perform safely; you may just find the noise unpleasant.

Why Choose Drilled & Slotted Rotors?

Best for: Street Performance, Towing/Hauling, Off-Road

Pros:

Drilled & slotted brake rotors offer the benefits of drilled and slotted rotors together. Like drilled rotors, they work well for wet climates where frequent rain is a consideration.

They perform well, although not necessarily better than other styles of brake rotors. These newer brake rotors are starting to appear on some luxury cars, including Mercedes and BMW. Car owners looking to be consistent with maintenance may prefer to stick with the drilled & slotted brake rotors if these were original to their vehicle.

Drilled and slotted rotors do work particularly well for tow vehicles, trucks, and other cars that carry heavy loads. Heavier vehicles require more energy to come to a stop safely, and this type of brake rotor excels at delivering it. Drilled & slotted brake rotors are also fine for general use in street vehicles.

Cons:

Drilled & slotted rotors are not recommended for performance racing since the drilling makes them vulnerable to cracking.

Why Choose Blank (OEM) Brake Rotors?

Best for: Street, Autocross/Track, Towing/Hauling, Off-Road

Pros:

Far and away, most new cars come with blank rotors installed both for maximum effectiveness across driving conditions and for cost effectiveness. If you do not drive aggressively, have a luxury car, or seek a brake rotor that is quiet above all, smooth rotors can be the right choice for you.

A top choice for endurance racers who need a brake pad that can hold up through a long race, as well as an overall inexpensive brake rotor choice, smooth or blank brake rotors can work very well for many needs. They tend to be the longest lasting overall, while also produce very little dust and are quiet to operate. It is precisely the plain nature of these brake rotors that makes them last longer: Without any drill holes or slots there is little room for cracks to develop.

Cons:

There’s not much cons to having a blank rotor. Some drivers have a misconception that they should choose slotted or drilled rotors over blank rotors for superior performance. This is not necessarily true, so do not feel the need to select a particular type of brake rotor over the misunderstanding that it is better than another style of brake rotor. It all depends on how you drive your vehicle and how you would like it to stop.

If you are happy with the type of brake rotor currently used in your car — which you should be able to view after removing the wheel — it may make sense to just replace the rotor with the same rotor. If you seek a rotor for a specific performance need, from rainy weather to race performance, then you now have the information that you need to be able to select in confidence the best brake rotors for your ride.

No matter the type of brake rotor you choose, pay attention to how your vehicle drives and how it brakes. As young brake system begins to age, plan ahead and order replacement parts so you can install new brake pads and rotors before your existing ones fail.

After you have decided which brake rotor to purchase, order the rotors of your choice from a reliable manufacturer. Install the new brake rotors yourself or schedule an appointment to have your certified mechanic do it for you. When combined with reliable brake pads, brake rotors will help you stay safe on the road.

Pro Tips To Avoid Warped Brake Rotors

Upgrade to cross drilled rotors or cross drilled & slotted rotors to prevent warped rotors. Cross drilled rotors and cross drilled and slotted rotors will provide better heat ventilation. It will bring the temperature of the rotor down to a point where heat spots are least likely to form. Cross drilled rotors will prevent the glazed effect from brake pads.

When you change new brake pads make sure to take the time to do the proper break in.

Use proper lug nut tightening procedures. Lug nut torque is very important when it comes to the integrity of your rotors. Varying torque from one lug nut to another can cause your rotors to warp over time. • Always use a torque wrench when tightening lug nuts. • It is good practice to tighten the lug nut in a criss-cross pattern. • You do not need to jump on the wrench to tighten the lug nuts. Simply use your body weight on the torque wrench until it stops turning. If you do this evenly to all the lug nuts on each wheel in a criss-cross pattern you are on the path to maximum rotor life.

Can You Change Only the Brake Rotors?

When you replace the brake rotors but keep your old brake pads, you save money and time. You can get by with just replacing brake rotors, but you may want to replace the brake pads at the same time – even if they do not strictly need it. Here’s why: The old brake pads and the old rotors were worn down together. The pads hit the rotors in the same spots hundreds of times a day, stopping your car. When you replace the rotors, you have fresh, flat brake rotors and grooved brake pads that will only make contact with the brake rotors in places where the pads have high points. The grooved areas of the pads cannot reach the rotors. As a result, you do not have access to your car’s full stopping power. If you needed to come to a hard stop in an emergency, you may not be able to stop in time. Additionally, if you change only the brake rotors, and your brakes keep making noise, it may be due to the uneven wear between the pads and the brakes. Changing your brake pads will end unwanted braking noises and return your full braking power. It is beneficial to replace both your brake pads and rotors at the same time. Especially if you are replacing your brake parts yourself, the cost of the components is minor. It may be worth the added peace of mind (and less time spent on brake maintenance later) to just go ahead and replace the brake pads with the rotors.

Choose the Right Brake Rotor Pattern

Always be ready for anything or anywhere. Having quality brake rotors is essential to giving you that extra stopping performance. Replacement rotor offer equal quality as your OEM rotors but at an affordable price. We Recommend: R1 Carbon GEOMET® Series Drilled and Slotted The R1 Carbon GEOMET® Series Cross-Drilled reduce the heat that builds on the rotor by up to 105F. Cross-drilled rotors are also chamfered, reduces the potential for cracking. We Recommend: R1 Carbon GEOMET® Series Drilled Only The R1 Carbon GEOMET® Series Diamond Slotted is for a shorter stopping distance, which reduces the heat even in high-performance driving. We Recommend: R1 Carbon GEOMET® Series Slotted Only

Brake Bleeding

Brake bleeding is a procedure performed on your brake system where brake lines containing brake fluids are removed of any air bubbles. Over time air and moisture can get into your brake lines that can compromise your safety and the effectiveness of your brake system How to check if you need brake bleeding: Confirming that you need brake bleeding is important. The sinking brake pedal often does mean the brake lines need to be bled. However, it is very important to confirm that the sinking pedal is not caused by something else. (These methods are common knowledge and not to be taken as instructions) Try this simple test when you are stopped and waiting at a red light. With your foot, keep an even pressure on the brake pedal. Does the pedal sink lower, at all? If so, then you should have your car’s brake system inspected by an ASE Certified Master Auto Technician to confirm the root cause is not something else. If the pedal remains at the same height, then you may just need to remove air that has entered into the brake hydraulic system. Sinking brake pedal could also be caused by other things that could be very dangerous. For example, brake pedals can also sink if there is a hydraulic problem, like a failing master cylinder, a leaking rear wheel cylinder, a bad caliper or bad ABS. So it is important to rule out these dangerous possibilities via professional inspection before proceeding.

How to Properly Break In Your New Brakes

Bedding your brakes gives the benefit of making your brakes last longer additionally saving you money in the future. There are few methods and process in how to bed new brakes. Here’s one way you can properly bed your newly installed brakes. Assuming your new installed brakes for your car or truck have been tested & inspected properly to operate. The next step is “bedding”. Bedding is basically making your new brake pads and rotors to work together properly so you can get the best performance from your brakes. The process of bedding can be repetitive however it’s a very crucial level in order for your brakes to perform properly. Below we have easy to follow procedures in order to get you going (bedding). Step 1: The first step requires many repetitive accelerating and quick decelerating. We recommend having this done on a race track or somewhere with a very low traffic to avoid accidents. Speed up to 60 MPH and start applying the brake gently a few times to bring them up to their usual operating temperature. This conditions the pads & rotors to have enough heat to generate for the next steps. Step 2: Next step you’re going to need to do stops from 60 Miles per hour to 10 miles per hour and press the brake firmly, but not hard enough to the point your abs activates or the wheels will go into lock. Upon slowing down (DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP) immediately speed up again to 60 Miles per hour and apply the brakes again. This process needs to be done about 8 to 10 times. Always remember that during this process you must NOT come to complete stop because it can ruin your brakes performance. Step 3: Depending on how many cycles of the process you did from Step 2. The 8 or 10th final stop what you need to do is accelerate a little more, but try to use as little brakes as possible in order to give the brakes to cool down. Remember do NOT come to complete stop. If you are bedding in performance/racing brakes, you’re going need to perform an extra higher speed and additional stops.

How to Choose Brake Pads | Ceramic or Organic Brake Pads

If you are wondering how to choose brake pads for your vehicle, visit R1 Concepts online today. View our tips and tricks for choosing the right brake pads here! Nowadays, we have ceramics, semi-metallic, organic, and metallic formulations. Choosing the best combination for your vehicle isn’t always clear as black and white. Here are some tips on how to choose brake pad material for your vehicle. What you would want to consider is the type of use your vehicle is doing, what type of vehicle you have, and of course, your budget. Are you using it as a daily commuter or does it see lot of track time on race tracks? For most of us, daily commuting is what we do most with our cars. If this is the case, ceramic and organic compound brake pads would be ideal. Ceramic compounds are great because they generally do not require warm ups. With the hustle and bustle of the modern world, who can stop and think about brakes. It just needs to work. Without the need to warm up, you can get instant stopping power.

Ceramic compound brake pads produce minimal brake dust with minimal noise operation. Those with fancy and expensive wheels, one can rejoice because their wheels will stay a lot cleaner with ceramic pads. Like all brake pads, there are downsides. Ceramic pads can fade at very high temperatures reducing performance. However, with today’s technology, ceramic mixtures with different types of fibers have reduced fade dramatically? There are also organic pads that are constructed, like its name suggests, organic materials such as carbon and kevlar. These pads are great if you are looking for low noise. If you’re in a pinch and money is an issue, organic pads are something to think about because they are fairly inexpensive. If you use your vehicle for recreational fun at the tracks, semi-metallic or metallic would be ideal. This type of compound will offer superior stopping power.
However, semi-metallic and metallic pads will need to warm up to certain temperature ranges to perform at their potential. Another drawback with metallic base pads is that they produce quite a bit of dust. They have higher noise level and also have a higher chance to score the brake discs. You will also want to consider the wear characteristics of the pads you are getting. Simply put, this is how much life you are getting from the set of pads or the rate at which the pads are breaking down over time. If you are looking for longer life or better wear, choose pads that are ceramics or have ceramic materials. Of course there are drawbacks for having longer life. The drawback will be braking performance. It’s a give-and-take relationship. So a general rule is, longer life equals less performance and shorter life equals better performance (not always the case but the majority and typical).
The exceptions are the organic pads. Organic pads have the worst life of all the compound types and do not perform as well as ceramics are semi-metallic. The reason ceramic base pads offer better life is because they are made denser with other fibers added as oppose to semi-metallic, which are less dense. Once you get idea of the compound you might want, shop around and compare. There are literally hundreds of brands and options on the market. Shopping for brakes online is a great way to save. Generally, physical retail stores will have brake pads a bit higher in price than online stores because of their different business structure. (No need for details since this is not an economics lesson). Using a pad type that came originally from the factory is a good choice because generally they are the most effective. If you do not know what type your original pads are, you can always contact your local dealership to see what came originally. R1 Concepts offers a great selection of low dust/low noise ceramic pads as well has semi-metallic pads, ultra high performance race proven street pads, and even OEM factory brake pads.

Semi Metallic Vs. Ceramic Brake pads

Semi Metallic Brake pads

Semi Metallic brake pads consist of organic and metal materials. They are often mediocre brake pads which will perform pefectly fine when it comes to braking (Usually what OEM comes with). But the downfall of Semi-Metallic brake pads is that its extremely dusty compared to Ceramic brake pads. The Upside of it is that it has outstanding wear characteristics and is a very quiet brake pad.

Ceramic Brake Pads

Ceramic brake pads consist of ceramic compounds and copper fibers which allow ceramic pads to handle the high brake temperatures with less brake fade. Not only that ceramic pads has the least amount of brake fade, it also has the least amount of brake dust. Ceramic pads are made with a harder compound which may be a little bit more noiser than a softer compound such as semi-metallic, but the stopping power of ceramic brake pads really out weighs using semi-metallic.

Brake Rotor Vane Structures Variety

Every brake rotor is constructed with different vane structures to provide cooling efficiency. Brake rotors have inner vanes that are constructed with different patterns; straight, curved, pillar, etc. Each pattern distributes air circulation differently. Most rotors can be drilled all the way through without any hardships. There are a few cases where the vanes are too complex or rotors are made factory with identical directional vanes on a matching pair of rotors. This results to making it difficult or impossible to make an even drilling pattern from a left and right brake rotor. To drill through the vanes of brakes rotors can be harmful to the rotor construction. R1 Concepts machines their brake rotors with precision and makes sure vanes are not tampered during the drilling process. For that reason, it doesn’t degrade the integrity of the brake rotors and upholds the quality for a longer lasting rotor. If a drilling complication occurs in the inner vane construction, there are other options of machining to provide performance with brake rotors. It can be machined slotted only or dimpled (drilled halfway through the rotor before it reaches the vanes)/slotted. It provides increased brake pad bite and helps reduce glazing from the pads. As a result, it will provide less chance of warping than standard blank rotors.

StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Under continuous use, OEM(original equipment replacement) rubber lines can swell and expand, exposing the driver to brake fade. In worst case scenario, the rubber lines wear and tear can be vulnerable to be susceptible to debris, causing failure. Stainless steel brake lines reduce volumetric expansion. Which means it will provide quicker pedal response and maintain consistent brake pressure. There are stainless steel brake lines made from many other companies, but Stoptech stainless steel brake lines has an undenied reputation for high durability and performance. StopTech brake lines consist of a Teflon® inner line that is covered with a layer of stainless steel woven braid. The Teflon tube is very resistant to expansion under pressure and will not degrade from exposure to brake fluid. The stainless steel braid provides support for the Teflon and the weave is extremely durable against incidental impact and abrasion. StopTech brake lines feature a Clear Abrasion Resistant Cover for maximum protection against chaffing All StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines are DOT (United States Department of Transportation) compliant and 100% tested to a pressure of 4500 psi.

Gas Saving Tips

Today’s gas prices are through the roof. Here are a few tips to help you save some gas and a little extra cash.

One easy way to save gas is to turn off your engine if you are going to be idling for more than 30 seconds. Millions of gallons of gasoline is wasted everyday from idling. Your starter and battery system can handle the increased activity and you would waste more gas idling than you would from restarting your engine.

Changing your air filter at least every 10,000 miles so that your engine can suck in air without anymore restriction. The easier your car breathes, the more gas it can save

Keep your tire pressure up. Low tire pressure will slow you down which means your engine will have to work harder and will use up more gas. Don’t over inflate over the recommended pressure listed by tire manufacturer as it can cause uneven tire wear.

Waxing your car and keeping it clean can save gas also. Friction with the air reduces fuel economy. A clean waxed vehicle will have reduced aerodynamic drag thus saving you some gas. I know it sounds weird but at least keeping your car clean does more than making your car look good.

Use cruise control when your on the freeway when it is possible to do so. Cruise control will keep your speed at a consistant level better than you can. Less accelerating and decelerating will save you fuel. There are more ways to save gas and some are more extreme such as weight reduction. You can replace body parts with carbon fiber or any other light weight material to reduce weight but that can be very expensive. Another more obvious way is to not drive at all and use another modes of transportation. Saving a couple of cents on gas may not seem much now but in the long run, over time it can save you hundreds or thousands of dollars.

Warning Signs that You Need Your Brakes Checked

Brakes are overlooked and often neglected, but they’re certainly one of the most crucial parts that you need to maintain. Most cars use what are known as disc brakes. A hydraulic system filled with brake fluid triggers a set of padded clamps known as calipers, causing them to squeeze together on a disc known as the rotor. The friction that occurs between the brake pads and rotor eventually stops the car. Paying attention to the warning signs that involve any of these parts that indicate a need for service can mean the difference between life and death on the road in any given day. Stop, look, and listen; there are some obvious signs that your brakes need servicing, such as the brake light appearing on your car’s dashboard or the feeling that your vehicle is taking longer to stop than it should, and listening for a harsh grinding sound. In either of these cases, you should visit & consult your local mechanic for a brake check as soon as possible. But do you know what the other signs are that could indicate an ailing brake system? Here, we deliver some other signs that just may help you put the brakes, on a serious accident in the future. The brake pedal pulsates as you moderately apply the brakes. You’re driving, and you press on the brakes, only to feel that pulsating sensation. The first diagnosis that comes to mind could be a warped brake rotor. One of the most common causes of a warped brake rotor is the improper installation of the wheel or simply it indicates that the disc brake rotors needs services and/or is at end of its life. The brake pedal gradually drops to the floor although the pressure applied on the brake pedal is steady. This may indicate a faulty brake master cylinder or air in the system. Check the area around the master cylinder for leaking brake fluid. This can indicate a damaged reservoir or the seals inside the master cylinder itself leaking and allowing the fluid to escape. The brake pedal requires excessive force to apply the brakes. Over time, as you can imagine, the pads will begin to wear thin, which means they’ll become less effective at slowing and stopping your car. However brakes when subjected to undue heat stress may glaze and become inefficient or brake pads may simply be worn out. Calipers or wheel cylinders may have become clogged and need cleaning or replacing. The brake booster could be faulty and need repairs or servicing. The brake smoke or emits a burning smell when you stop. The most common reason to smoking brakes is a sticking caliper. Unless the brake pads are new, this may indicate that the calipers are seizing. If the caliper has seized, you may also notice one of your brake pads is very much worn down compared to the opposite or correctly functioning caliper. High spirited driving can also be indicated by the rotors smoking. The vehicle pulls to one side as the brakes are applied The usual cause of this symptom is contamination on the braking surface or a malfunctioning caliper. It can also be caused by different tire sizes on the right and left wheels. The vehicle makes a distinct grinding noise when you apply the brakes. This may indicate that the brake pads have completely worn out and damage to the brake rotors are already occurring. At this point is very critical to install new brake pads. Any of the above situations requires immediate attention and should seek or visit a professional brake specialist to diagnose the issues and/or do the required repairs. For many owners, maintaining the vehicle’s brakes is something that is often overlooked. But keeping your brakes properly calibrated and in good working order can prevent costly repairs down the line. More importantly, help you avoid any types of collision.

11 Signs Indicating That Your Brakes Need Service

Often neglected, but one of the most crucial components on your vehicles are the brakes. Paying attention to the warning signs that indicate a need for service can mean the difference between life and death on the road. Here are 11 signs that your brakes need to be checked:

The brake pedal pulsates as you moderately apply the brakes.

The brake pedal gradually drops to the floor although the pressure applied on the brake pedal is steady. This may indicate a faulty brake master cylinder or air in the system.

The brake pedal requires excessive force to apply the brakes. This may indicate a brake booster failure.

The brake pedal goes to the floor with little or no resistance. This may indicate that either the master cylinder is defective or you have a leak in your braking system.

The brakes lock up at slow speeds. This may indicate that the wheel cylinders are leaking. Brake fluid may have leaked onto the brake shoes and has contaminated them.

The brakes smoke or emits a burning smell when you stop. The most common reason to smoking brakes is a sticking caliper. Unless the brake pads are new, this may indicate that the calipers are seizing. If the caliper has seized, you may also notice one of your brake pads is very much worn down compared to the opposite or correctly functioning caliper. High spirited driving can also be indicated by the rotors smoking.

The brakes squeal as you moderately apply pressure to the brake pads (brake pads have metal tabs designed to scrape on the rotor when low). This may indicate that the brake pads are low and are in need of replacement before the brake rotors are damaged. However, that are certain brake pads that will squeal due to material. Performance Brake Pads tend to squeal. Cars that are equipped with Brembos, Alcon or any other factory performance brake kit, Ceramic pads on these vehicles may squeal.

The travel distance is more than usual or close to half the distance to stop when you engage the brakes. This may indicate that the brake pads are low and need to be adjusted or replaced.

The ABS light fails to turn off when the engine is running. The presence of an ABS light signifies that the system is offline or inoperative. The brakes will perform properly under normal circumstances, however, the ABS system will not operate under emergency stopping which will lengthen your stopping distance. Several factors could cause the ABS to malfunction, however, the wheel sensors are usually the problem.

The vehicle makes a distinct grinding noise when you apply the brakes. This may indicate that the brake pads have completely worn out and damage to the brake rotors are already occurring. At this point is very critical to install new brake pads.

The vehicle pulls to one side as the brakes are applied. Maybe an indication that one of the brake calipers is malfunctioning. This could be the results of a collapsed brake hose, non-sliding or defective caliper.

Any of the above situations require immediate attention in order to prevent further damage. It is better to spend pocket change now than wait a few weeks and incur a bill that requires thought concerning financing the repairs. We recommend visiting a professional brake specialist to diagnose and/or do the required repairs.